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When curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.